Tussar Silk · Care Guide · The Swiss Laundry
Tussar silk
care guide.
How to clean, store and preserve Tussar silk sarees. What makes Tussar different from other silks, why it is particularly vulnerable to watermarks, and how to protect its distinctive natural texture.
Tussar silk must always be dry cleaned. The raw silk surface is the most watermark-prone of all Indian silk types — even a small splash creates a permanent dull mark that cannot be removed.
The Swiss Laundry · Kasba, Kolkata · Est. 2013What is Tussar silk
Tussar silk (also spelled Tasar, and known as Kosa silk in Chhattisgarh) is produced by wild silkworms — primarily Antheraea mylitta — rather than the cultivated mulberry silkworm that produces Banarasi, Kanjivaram and Chanderi. This difference in origin is what defines everything about Tussar's texture, appearance and care requirements.
The texture: Wild silkworm cocoons produce a coarser, more uneven fibre than cultivated silk. When woven, this creates Tussar's distinctive characteristics — a natural earthy colour ranging from ivory to warm gold-brown, a matte surface sheen rather than high gloss, a slightly rough texture that catches light differently from smooth silk, and a characteristic "slub" appearance from the uneven fibre thickness.
The craft: Tussar is woven across several Indian states — Bihar (Bhagalpur Tussar), Jharkhand, Odisha, West Bengal and Chhattisgarh. Bhagalpur is the most significant centre, known for producing Tussar of particularly fine quality. West Bengal produces its own variety of Tussar, giving it a specific relevance for Kolkata customers.
Why Tussar silk must be dry cleaned
All silk requires dry cleaning. Tussar requires it even more urgently than most — because the raw, porous fibre structure makes it the most watermark-prone of all Indian silk types.
Why the watermark risk is higher on Tussar: Cultivated silk (mulberry silk) has a relatively uniform fibre surface. Tussar fibres are uneven — the surface is more porous and absorbs water unevenly. When water contacts Tussar and then dries, the uneven absorption leaves a visible tide mark where the water boundary was. On smooth mulberry silk, this effect is also present but less severe. On Tussar, it is immediate and visually stark.
What happens to the texture: Beyond watermarks, water also relaxes the natural crimp in Tussar fibres. The distinctive slightly rough texture and the way the fabric catches light — both defining characteristics of genuine Tussar — are partially lost when the fabric is wetted and dried. Dry cleaning preserves these qualities.
Watermarks on Tussar — prevention and treatment
Watermarks are the most common form of damage to Tussar silk. Understanding what they are and how to prevent them is the core of Tussar care.
What causes a watermark: When water contacts Tussar, it spreads outward from the point of contact. At the edge of the spreading water, the concentration of dissolved mineral salts and silk proteins is highest as the water evaporates. This leaves a ring or tide mark — visible as a slightly darker or lighter line compared to the surrounding dry fabric.
If Tussar gets wet: Do not blot with a damp cloth — that will spread the watermark. Blot with a completely dry cloth to absorb as much water as possible. Allow to dry at room temperature away from heat. Bring to a dry cleaner as soon as possible — some fresh watermarks on Tussar can be treated professionally. A watermark that has dried completely and been left for days is much harder to address.
Prevention: Avoid wearing Tussar in rain or near water. Store away from humid environments — in Kolkata during monsoon, humidity alone can cause surface mottling on Tussar stored without proper wrapping and desiccant.
Stain first aid — Tussar silk
| Stain | Immediate action | Do not |
|---|---|---|
| Oil / food | Blot excess with a completely dry cloth. Dry cleaner within 24–48 hours. | Do not rub. Do not apply water. |
| Water splash | Blot immediately with a dry cloth. Dry completely at room temperature. Dry cleaner if a mark forms. | Do not apply more water. Do not use heat to dry. |
| Tea / drink | Blot excess liquid only with a dry cloth. Dry cleaner same day. | Do not apply water. Do not rub. |
| Sweat | Air for one hour. Dry clean before storing. | Do not store without cleaning. |
Storing Tussar silk — protecting the texture
West Bengal has its own Tussar weaving tradition — particularly from the Birbhum and Bankura districts. Kolkata customers often wear locally produced Tussar as everyday silk wear and for casual occasions. The combination of Kolkata's humidity and Tussar's high moisture-sensitivity makes correct storage — particularly during monsoon — more important for Tussar than for most other silk types stored in the city.
Tussar silk care — do and do not
- Dry clean only — without exception
- Dry clean before storing for summer
- Wrap in undyed cotton muslin for storage
- Pad fold lines with acid-free tissue
- Use silica gel during Kolkata monsoon
- Blot any water splash immediately with a dry cloth
- Air for one hour after wearing before folding
- Wash in water — ever
- Apply water to any stain
- Wear in rain without care — Tussar watermarks instantly
- Store in plastic bags
- Iron directly — press through a damp cloth only
- Store in a humid room during monsoon without desiccant
- Fold on the same crease repeatedly
Common questions
Questions.
Answered.
Dry clean only. The raw silk surface is the most watermark-prone of all Indian silk types — water leaves immediate, permanent dull marks. Professional dry cleaning is the only safe method.
Tussar comes from wild silkworms rather than cultivated mulberry silkworms. The fibres are coarser and uneven — producing a distinctive matte, earthy texture. This porosity makes it more vulnerable to watermarks than smooth silk.
Dry clean first. Wrap in undyed cotton muslin. Store flat with acid-free tissue at fold lines. Cedar or neem nearby. Silica gel desiccant during Kolkata monsoon months.
A watermark forms immediately as the water dries — a visible ring or tide mark. Blot with a dry cloth at once. Bring to a dry cleaner promptly — fresh watermarks have a better chance of treatment than set ones.
Only with a damp pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric, from the reverse side, at the silk temperature setting. Never direct iron contact — it creates permanent sheen marks on the matte surface.
Tussar silk.
Cleaned correctly.
Dry cleaning for all silk sarees and garments. Doorstep pickup across 30+ areas in Kolkata.