Why cleaning before storage matters
The most common mistake with seasonal woollen storage is putting clothes away without cleaning them first. A suit worn to three events in February, still wearable and looking fine, gets folded into a trunk and put away until November. When it comes out in October, it has yellow patches under the arms and two moth holes in the lapel.
Both problems have the same cause: organic soils left on the fabric during storage. Body oils under the arms oxidised over 8 months and stained the fabric. The moth larvae ate at the collar and lapel where food residue had accumulated from a dinner in January.
Clothes moths (Tineola bisselliella) are attracted to organic soils on fabric — body oils, food residue, perspiration, blood. They are not attracted to clean fabric. A clean woollen stored correctly, with appropriate deterrents, is highly unlikely to experience moth damage. The same fabric, stored with soils, provides both food and shelter for larvae.
The moth problem in India
India's climate is ideal for clothes moths. The combination of warmth (moths are more active above 20°C), humidity (which supports larval development), and the prevalence of organic-fibre garments (silk, wool, cashmere) creates conditions that support large moth populations year-round.
In Kolkata, the peak risk period is April through September — the hottest and most humid months. Moths lay eggs on fabric in the warmth; larvae hatch and feed during the monsoon humidity. By October, a badly stored woollen can have significant damage.
Wrapping and containers
The correct container and wrapping for woolens depends on the value and delicacy of the fabric.
For everyday woolens: fold with tissue between layers to prevent colour transfer. Store in a cotton bag or pillowcase. Add cedar or neem. Store in a cool, dry location.
For cashmere, fine merino or structured woollens (suits, coats): fold with tissue padding at every fold. Place in a cotton garment bag. If storing in a trunk, line it with acid-free paper first and add silica gel to control humidity.
Plastic bags trap humidity and can cause mildew and colour migration. Newspaper contains acids that transfer to fabric. Cardboard boxes are attractive to silverfish, which also eat wool. Wire hangers distort the shoulder shape of structured coats and suits over months of storage.
Checking during summer
Stored woolens should not be ignored for the entire 8 months. A brief check in July — after the first monsoon humidity surge — can catch problems early and prevent significant damage.
What to look for: any sign of mould or mildew (white or grey patches or a musty smell when briefly opened); any evidence of moth activity (small holes, webbing, or the larvae themselves, which are small cream-coloured caterpillars); condensation or visible dampness inside the storage container.
If any of these are found: remove affected garments immediately, assess the damage, and bring to a professional dry cleaner before re-storing.
When they come out in October
Woolens that have been correctly stored should emerge in October ready to wear after airing. Hang each garment for 24–48 hours in a well-ventilated space before wearing to allow any storage smells to dissipate and the fabric to relax from its stored shape.
Woolens that emerge with a musty smell, yellow patches, or any visible damage need professional dry cleaning before wearing. The musty smell indicates biological activity in the storage environment. Yellow patches indicate oxidised soils. Both should be treated before the garment is worn against skin.
"The October dry cleaning rush we see every year is almost entirely woolens that were stored without being cleaned in February. The solution is simple — it just requires remembering to do it in the right order."
Bring your woolens to The Swiss Laundry before May. We clean, condition where appropriate, and return them ready for correct storage. Garments that go into summer storage clean at The Swiss Laundry emerge clean in October — without the yellowing, moth damage, and mildew that incorrect storage causes every year.